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Main Power Cable

Running the main power cable through a car is always a pain. Thick wire should first penetrate through firewall and then you have to try to hide it under carpeting tearing the whole car into pieces where you're at it.

The break fluid and gasoline lines are located on Sebring's bottom on the same side of the car where the battery is in engine bay. The lines are attached to the bottom using plastic clips. Just as in the previous installation in my older Sebring, I decided to run the main power cable underneath the car straight to the trunk. One of the reasons for doing this is that there are no free rubber grommets in the firewall. The main power cable is now tied to gasoline lines with Panduits near the firewall. Under the car the cable is attached to the same plastic clips the gasoline and break fluid lines run.

There's a rubber grommet for gasoline level sensor behind the back seat. The grommet is so big that you can easily bring through a 50 square millimeter power wire as well.

Front Speakers

For the front speakers I used the same set of equipment as in the old car. The only actual task was to move the speaker connector from stock speakers to the Diamond Audio speakers, because I wanted to use the original speaker wiring of the car.

Installing the speakers on the dash was straight forward. Due to my experiences with the old Sebring, I already knew which way to point the tweeters for the best imaging. I used a lot of foam to kill the back waves of the dash speakers and that way to avoid all unwanted rattles there may occur.

Installing the midbass speakers on the doors required a bit more wore. I decided to remove the original plastic covering the door upholstering from moisture. In the previous car it caused rattles when playing out loud. I used 4 mm thick asphalt mat to damp the whole door. It now replaces the plastic covering, too.

The installation was finished with 6.5 inch Diamond Audio midbass speaker, which was installed using an MDF fitting ring.

In addition to damped rattles, the doors resemble a lot like high-priced European car: When shut, the doors give very dignified thumb sound now.

Subwoofer Enclosure

After a long pondering, the subwoofer enclose was decided to be located under the rear deck so that the woofer cones would be under the 6x9" holes on the deck. In order to remove the original speaker I had to remove C pillar panels, too. It was a bit surprise to find airbags behind the panels. The installation was yet more exciting when I noticed the explosive charges on the end of the airbags...

Sealed enclosure requirement for CDT Audio MS-80 subwoofer is 10 litres. I made a two chamber enclosure for two drivers using 16 mm thick MDF. The enclose is filled with polyester foam. The driver locations are selected carefully to match the openings of original speakers on the rear deck.

Amplifier Rack

Amplifier rack was placed on the bottom of the trunk mainly due to its weight. More elegant solution would have been to place amplifier on the bottom of the subwoofer enclosure, but weight of the package would have exceeded my skills to attach it securely.

The rack is made of chipboard holding McIntosh MC4000M amplifier. The amp gives 100 watts per each front speaker. The subs are driven with 300 watts each. This high-end amplifier is equipped with two blue-lit good-old power meters.

Sony XDP-4000X DSP, MP3 player, radio/MP3 signal switch along with capasitor and fuse box are placed in the rack.

The rack is attached to the bottom of the trunk, so it quite secure. The system is grounded using power antenna's grounding point, which is located on the passenger's side of the trunk.